![]() California shores up both approaches.Ī lone palate couldn’t, and shouldn’t, compile a guide of this breadth. Another westernizes hers with a filling of truffle and Parmesan and country ham. One skilled chef can painstakingly recreate her grandmother’s Shanghainese pork soup dumplings. At its most optimistic, it’s about celebrating the fluidity and integrity of immigrant cooking, about creating and sustaining community. Tacos, tostadas, shrimp Louis, dim sum, falafel, pho, kebabs, the supplest pastas, pastries filled with fruits so complex and ripe they left my brain addled, adobo and cornmeal waffles and fiery Sichuan stews and so many tasting menus: What emerged from all the gorging was an evolved definition of California cuisine.Įating here isn’t simply about chasing the perfect peach. In total I’ve spent almost two months in California this year, including a recent month traipsing from San Diego to Sacramento, along the coastline and inland and then back again skimming the Pacific. The restaurants that best define how we think and feel about dining, within California’s borders and beyond, deserve to be singled out. California is more than a region unto itself: It’s a state of mind. The project takes inspiration from our city sites’ 38 lists and our annual guide to the essential restaurants in America. ![]() Previously, Eater’s “Regional 38” series pinpointed the crucial dining destinations in the South, New England, the Great Lakes region of the Midwest, and Texas. Cue, then, an impossible exercise: to identify California’s 38 most important and defining restaurants right this minute. The state shapes our dining culture - which is to say, our overall culture - more than ever. Yet it’s also the birthplace of the fast-food cheeseburger and Taco Bell, of fortune cookies and French dips and ranch dressing. ![]() Forty years ago, its chefs, farmers, entrepreneurs, activists, visionaries, and romantics began jolting this country from a canned-soup stupor into a Technicolor world of freshness. ![]() Its very name invokes a thousand different ingredients and dishes. California, for those of us who live to eat, is everything. ![]()
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